A1.

Let's assume your new home in the Pacific Northwest will be 2200 square feet. Each year you will spend about $300 in electric energy costs on lighting. With energy efficient lighting, your will see these costs drop by about $200.

Your cost to purchase lighting will vary, but you can expect to increase your lighting budget by about $1000. Your utility company might offer incentives to help offset a portion of this added cost. However, even if you pay the whole bill, you can see that the energy savings will pay off the added cost depending on your occupancy and use patterns. Expect larger benefits for families that are frequently at home with small children, and/or use many rooms on a daily basis, such as those with home offices.

Q2.

I thought fluorescent lighting was only used in large buildings like schools, warehouses, and office complexes. If all fluorescent lighting is noisy, flickers, and makes people look sick, then why are you recommending that I put these things in my lighting design?

A2.

Major improvements in fluorescent lighting over the last 20 years include significantly better color, the use of noise-free electronic ballasts, and the elimination of flicker. These improvements address the most common problems fluorescent lighting has traditionally presented. Unfortunately, it is still possible today to purchase and install bad fluorescent lighting - if you are not careful.

So how do you tell which fluorescent lighting is right for your house? Let the ENERGY STAR guide light your way to the energy saving benefits of modern fluorescent lighting. Recognizing that most consumers may not be able to readily discern between the older "bad" fluorescent lighting and the newer, improved energy efficient lighting, the US EPA created its ENERGY STAR rating system as a guide.

Q3.

Why do energy efficient fluorescent lighting fixtures cost so much more than everyday incandescent lighting? 

A3.

Fluorescent fixtures include a ballast, which is a device that regulates the operation of the fluorescent lamp. Modern ballasts are electronic, and even though ballasts are relatively inexpensive, they increase the cost of the fixture quite a bit. Outside of the ballast, the costs for fluorescent and incandescent lighting are similar and will vary with size and style

Q4.

Can I save money by buying regular incandescent lighting fixtures and screwing compact fluorescent lamps (CFL's) into them?

A4.

Not a bad idea - until the CFL burns out. Then, who knows what will go back into that socket, if anything? The risk to the fixture doesn't justify the relatively small savings. Also, many fixtures types, especially recessed downlights, require a specific reflector system to get the light out of the can. Installing a CFL into a can downlight often results in poor optical efficiency and a dissatisfied homeowner.

Q5.

Can I dim fluorescent lighting?

A5.

Yes, but CAREFULLY and only with the right technology. Most fluorescent light fixtures and CFL's should NOT be dimmed with conventional dimmers. A few specific CFL's and fluorescent fixtures do have dimming ballasts, but it is important to make certain that the type of dimmer and the dimming ballast will match. Your electrician or major electrical supply house can help you choose.

You should also know that dimmed fluorescent lighting does not create the same warm glow as dimmed incandescent lighting. You may still want to install an incandescent chandelier over the dining room table. Any other decorative lighting that does not need to be dimmed can, and should be fluorescent.

Q6.

If I dim an incandescent lamp, is that as energy efficient as using a fluorescent lighting system?

A6.

No. This is one of the most common misconceptions about lighting and energy efficiency. Take two lamps, an incandescent lamp and a fluorescent lamp, with the same lumen (light intensity) output when operated at full power. The fluorescent lamp will use between 25 and 30% of the power of the incandescent. If you dim the incandescent so that it barely glows, it will give off only 10% of its full light, but still use 33% of its electricity.

Q7.

What about outdoor lighting?

A7.

While there are fluorescent lights available that start and operate at very low temperatures, you need to be careful in selecting fixtures because of potential cold weather operation.

We suggest that all outdoor lighting, such as lanterns and other security lights, employ fluorescent sources. Owners of large properties such as ranches and farms might want to consider commercial HID lighting. For floodlighting yards and driveways for security, consider halogen lighting systems with motion sensors and photocells. Remember that a light that is off uses no energy, and motion sensor equipped lights generally use even LESS energy than fluorescent outdoor lights.

For landscape lighting, low voltage lighting is the most efficient use - or in some cases fluorescent landscape lighting equipment. Just remember to keep the watts down. Low voltage lighting is usually best when lighting a tree, for example, while fluorescent is the better choice to floodlight the front of the house.

Q8.

Which lighting in my house uses the most energy, and what can I do about it?

A8.

Historically, data suggests that kitchens, living rooms and outdoor lighting are the three biggest users. This can be affected by lifestyle, and oftentimes bathrooms and other spaces can be energy guzzlers as well.

In addition to following the recommendations of this site, which is principally for new construction and remodeling, you can also make sure that CFL's are installed in all existing sockets, including table lamps and other portable lighting. Motion sensing switches can easily be added to utility rooms and garages, and will make an immediate difference. And of course, make a conscious decision to turn lights off when not needed.

Q9.

How can I be sure that I have enough light?

A9.

Professional lighting designers, most architects, interior designers and lighting salespersons can design lighting that works from a combination of experience and mathematics. People who need to "do it themselves", can apply these same principles, if you follow a few basic rules.

First, in kitchens, living rooms, bathrooms and other places where lighting is critical, take the floor area of the room (square feet) and multiply by 1.25 for fluorescent or 3.5 for incandescent lighting. This will give you the approximate total watts needed for all lighting, including portable lamps. It's easy to see why fluorescent lighting saves energy isn't it?

Second, locate task lights near tasks. In kitchens, locate recessed downlights over kitchen islands and open countertops, and place undercabinet lights under overhead cabinets. In work areas, place a fluorescent work light over the bench. Place table or floor lamps close to your primary reading locations. It is often as simple as that. This practice allows you to concentrate light where you need it most, rather than spreading (and wasting) light over a wide area.

Third, use the experience of your eyes and the many places you visit every day. Make a point of remembering lighting solutions you have seen that worked well. Don't be afraid to seek the opinion of lighting salespeople. Look at lighting showrooms. Ask for input from your architect, contractor or builder. And always remember, lighting design is a new and growing profession, and unless you seek the counsel of an expert, you may need to combine several opinions (along with your own) to get the best solutions!